1
Time Out Market

We’ve arrived in Portugal! We’re in Lisbon for the next 6 days.

Today we’re taking it easy. Once we settled into our place we walked to a big food hall called Time Out Market that had an overwhelming number of food choices.

On our walk we confirmed rumors that Lisbon is hilly, including the stairs to our lodging!

Jessee and Rocky in the Philadelphia airport. 🥊

The view from the patio.

The stairwell up to our Airbnb.

Even the smallest size comes with 3 flavors which is fun.

The rooftop patio at our Airbnb.

Architecture and tiles along the way.

There is a lot of old unique door hardware. Handles, locks and knockers.

And small street art.

So many great gelato flavors to choose from….

Big street art.

2
Castelo de São Jorge

We’ve been walking around parts of Lisbon including the Castle of Sao Jorge in the Alfama neighborhood and the Botanical Gardens around the corner from where we’re staying.

Ongoing impressive door hardware.

Lots of narrow passages and laundry drying.

We attended a Portuguese guitar concert. It was a great mix of musicians and styles.

They were quite delicious!

An unusually large cactus at the botanical gardens.

Our first pastel de Nata in clever \240packaging.

The site of the castle of Sao Jorge has been occupied by various civilizations since 700 BC including Phonecians, Roman’s, Visgoths, Moors and now Portuguese. There isn’t an existing palace due to a massive earthquake in the 1700’s but there is record of it existing in the area in the photo below.

Love the mosaics in the pathways.

This is the street we’re staying on, in the green building.

View of the neighborhood around the castle.

Part of the defensive non-residencial castle fortifications are intact.

There are a lot of peacocks. Some of which have white feathers which I haven’t seen before.

3
Park and Palace of Monserrate

We visited two of many amazing palaces in Sintra today.

The first was the palace of Monserrat. The first two exterior photos aren’t mine. I borrowed them from the internet as the building is currently covered in scaffolding for restoration so not very visible or scenic.

No royalty lived here. Just a very rich Englishman.

Quite the door to the library.

Very fancy chandeliers.

The Moorish castle seen from Pena Palace.

There are several gates.

Increíble ceiling.

The garden was beautiful and on a massive scale.

Hallway.

The second palace was the Pena Palace where Portuguese royalty spent their summers. This first photo also isn’t my photo but gives a sense of scale. The building is out of a fairy tale.

This palace also has extensive grounds and gardens with several ponds and geese with stories to tell.

Entryway looking in. Truly beautiful.

Entryway looking out.

We were shunned by the entry cat.

4
Cascais

There are parts of Lisbon like any other city. Unremarkable office buildings, cookie cutter apartment blocks, big box stores and freeways. There are also amazing neighborhoods with architecture that is unique, colorful, stacked, cared for and also abandoned.

Below are some streetscapes from our wandering in Lisbon and the resort and fishing town of Cascais.

Note the surfboard icon on the train. Folks from Lisbon must tote them to coastal surfing spots on the trains.

This is in Cascais. A car can drive through but there’s no room for parking.

Fishing boats.

One of many Cascais beaches.

Break time! Check out the mountain of foam on these cappuccinos!

Cascais has amazing sidewalk and road mosaics.

5
Praça Martim Moniz

We took a great street art tour and learned many things about Lisbon, history, culture and artists here. Between the tour and our own wandering, we’ve come across a lot of street art. \240I’ll share some of our favorites.

One theme throughout are red carnations. They symbolize liberty. There is a story about the bloodless revolution from the dictatorship here in the 1970’s that involves soldiers putting red carnations in the barrels of their guns. Red carnations are in many of the murals.

Below is a Portuguese 12 string guitar and a Fado singer.

We had some good snacks today! This was a cod and cheese \240croquette.

Gelato from a place featured on the show Somebody Feed Phil. It was great. I had strawberry, zabillone, and a creamy basil which was my favorite. Jessee had strawberry, dark chocolate and stratchiatella.

This bee is made from trash.

Pizza sold by weight! They would cut it to any size. I had the sweet potato and mushroom and Jessee had the red sauce and mushrooms.

The photo above was taken on the spot where it is currently posted.

6
Faro

There is an issue in Portugal with empty derelict buildings To prevent people from squatting in unsafe places, they often fill the windows and doors with bricks. Sometimes the windows are open or all the glass is broken.

This empty building was around the corner from where we were staying in Lisbon. If you look at the lower left next to the blue parking sign, you can see where tile is missing. This is an issue all over Lisbon as the tiles, especially older ones, are valuable to sell as antiques. Prying them off often results in many of them breaking.

To highlight the issue, a local group of artists replaces missing tiles with new ones that don’t match along with a QR code to raise awareness. A few examples are below.

Sunset in Faro.

Old street art via tiles.

When we arrived in Faro one of the first things we saw was the “Space Invader” tile mosaic below done by the same artist we were introduced to in Melbourne. He gets around! He has an official map online showing all his installations around the world and this one is his. The fish is a bonus.

A beautiful old house with big black and white bird residents in giant nests on the roof. Storks!

A crocheted awning.

We found a restaurant that reproduces some of the traditional meat heavy foods with plant based look alikes. We enjoyed it!

A crocheted carnation that doesn’t have anything to do with tile but I love it.

Faro has a wall surrounding the oldest part of the city and two of the three entrances in the wall \240are below.

7
Tavira

We’ve been enjoying our time in Faro. Today we took a train east along the coast to Tavira to see a bit more of the Algarve. It was very charming.

Signs of spring are starting.

Time for snacks! Gelato with cookie spoons. Brilliant!

Tavira has a river going through the middle of town . This is one of the bridges connecting the two sides.

Happy Pi day! Back in Faro we randomly came across this inlay in the sidewalk of the numbers for pi which continue for a whole block. No explanation of why this is where it is. A mystery!

There are many orange trees in the Algarve. They seem very productive and smell amazing.

Then I decided to start documenting some of the tiles we come across on various buildings.

There was a pretty garden incorporated into the castle ruins.

We visited a tile museum highlighting different eras of tile styles and techniques.

A prawn and cheese toastie, fries and wine.

Still loving the door hardware.

8
Faro

Faro was a fun town to visit. I love the old city walls, cobbled streets and tiled buildings.

These are the cloisters of a building that served as a convent and is now an art museum.

One of the dishes was mackerel and sweet potato.

We had a great dinner at a restaurant that focuses on new takes on traditional Portuguese cuisine. The decorations and vibe were perfect. Like being in a grandma’s dining room.

One of the churches in town.

A gorgeous cappuccino I couldn’t resist sharing.

With maximalist decoration.

And newer ones with character too!

And a chapel made of bones of over 1,000 monks.

A bit creepy but also intriguing. Apparently they ran out of cemetery space and this was the solution.

With the required resident stork from the tower in the photo above.

So many unoccupied old buildings with character.

A few murals in town.

9
Cádiz

We have transitioned to Spain! We are in Cadiz. It is the longest inhabited city in Western Europe and has seen many civilizations including the Phoenicians, Romans, Moors and present day Spain. It is beautiful with fascinating streets and a very lively community.

Part of the beautiful seaside promenade walk below. The main cathedral is the large dome and towers to the left.

We came across this interesting art installation in a military chapel. It’s made entirely out of plastic trash. It reminds me of a sea monkey seascape.

Pretty and inviting streets.

Along the sea wall are a couple feral cat colonies. They appear very well cared for and have the best view in town!

They have beautiful tile.

Ice cream break!

We visited a Roman Theatre built in the first century BC but only rediscovered in the 1980’s when work was happening in the neighborhood. It could hold 10,000 people. Only about a third has been excavated as occupied buildings are on top of the rest. A city this old has a lot of layers.

I love the streets here.

One of the 3 entries to the walled part of the city.

Which way to go? Both look great!

For my fellow Tolkien fans…You shall not pass without visiting Middle Earth (store).

An in city beach.

The apartment building entryways here are very enticing. I want to go in them all!

There are several pretty parks.

The main cathedral.

A delicious Mediterranean dinner with falafel, hummus, cheese pastries and salad.

10
Mercado Central de Abastos de Cádiz

We took part in a great tour of Cadiz and learned a lot more history and some Andalusia tips and etiquette.

The tour included a sherry tasting, below.

And of course dessert and coffee 😄

This is the mailbox at the main post office. The mail goes in the lions mouth. I love this.

We have started sampling tapas. Here we had cured/dried Tuna, a cheese made with a blend of sheep/goat/cow milk, and a special local ham. Also tinto de verano which is red wine, soda water and lemon mixed together. Very refreshing.

Looking toward the other bell tower.

One of a number of fortifications around the city.

This is a local alleyway that is supposed to be inhabited by a lucky gnome like creature who will grant wishes for good luck but just for the day that you visit the alley.

And beautiful entryway tiles.

This view is from the cathedral bell tower.

Ongoing fun door hardware.

There is a great central food market with lots of seafood, fruit and vegetables, olives, and prepared foods like paella.

11
Royal Alcázar of Seville

We are in Sevilla. It’s a bit of a madhouse, a lot of people visiting, but it’s for a good reason. It’s beautiful.

The orange trees are so fragrant. I’m not sure if the fruit is tasty as we haven’t tried picking any but they’re sure pretty!

And tile.

It has extensive and beautiful gardens.

The cathedral tower.

We went for pizza!

There are so many beautiful buildings and fountains, it’s a bit overwhelming.

And of course 🍧.

It has a lovely and very large park as well.

This is the Plaza de España. Built as part of an exposition honoring Andalucía and all the provinces of Spain. There’s a water feature that people can rent row boats to explore, a fountain and bridges. It huge and ornate.

We also visited the Alcazar Palace where royalty still stays when they’re in town. It’s built on the site of a Moorish fort and incorates a lot of Moorish architecture although it was built by Catholic rulers.

Many beautiful doors.

12
Setas de Sevilla

A busy day!

We saw some beautiful buildings in our wanderings down narrow passageways.

Taking a Well deserved break.

A historic ship museum on the river.

The bougainvillea is in full bloom!

We visited the casa de Pilatos. A palace of a noble family from the 1500’s. It has amazing tile work, ceilings and outdoor spaces.

Enticing entryway en route.

Sunset over the river.

Evening flamenco performance. It was really good, and intense!

Video below:

Next we went to las Setas. It’s the worlds biggest wooden structure. Part plaza hang out space underneath and part viewing structure on top.

Video below:

The torre de oro.

Gelato break! Cheesecake and crème brûlée.

13
Catedral de Sevilla

Today we visited the Sevilla Cathedral, which is enormous and is built on the site of a former mosque. It retains some of the mosques architecture such as this courtyard entryway below.

Gelato flavors of the day….dark chocolate orange and almond orange and strawberry.

And so many enticing apartment entryways.

I like these light covers at a much more human sized church near our lodging.

Many businesses seem to paint the security gates so they’re colorful when closed.

It’s hard to show the immensity of the inside of the church.

This was originally the mosque minaret.

There are so many pretty apartment buildings here.

Organ pipes.

14
Puente Nuevo de Ronda viewpoint

We have transitioned to Ronda. It is one of the larger of the white walled towns in the mountains of Andalusia. It’s the birthplace of bull fighting.

We arrived in time for a lovely sunset on our first day here.

One of the town gates.

Our customary gelato break 😀

This is one of the older bridges.

It’s no joke! It was the access to the only water source for the town when it was under siege.

The bottom of the stairwell at the rivers edge.

We also visited the Arabic baths which were a community hub for the town with heated rooms and water and star shaped skylights.

And of course enticing tiled entryways.

Lots of streets like this.

The town is divided in two by an impressive river gorge and is built right up to the edge of the gorge walls.

Cat enjoying the sunset too.

There are lovely parks along cliff side walking paths.

Looking down into the gorge from the bridge.

The two sides of town are connected by several bridges across the gorge. The Puente Nuevo or New bridge is the most impressive. It was built in the 1700’s - very new😜.

We visited a moorish house that had a lovely view from the garden and a staircase bored down the cliff to the river. 200 steps and 20 stories down, and back up!

A little mural art.

15
Mondragon Palace

Lots of walking to different parts of town today.

This is the view of the other side of the Puente Nuevo bridge than the side in the photos yesterday.

There were wildflowers blooming on the hillsides.

Some fun doors, entry and tiles from the day.

Neighborhood flowers.

A good boy on a balcony taking in the local happenings.

Looking toward one of the older bridges.

We walked down to near the bottom of the cliffs for a different view right before sunset.

Exploring the walls.

The museum gardens.

One of the city gates.

The Ronda Museum in a past palace.

View from the garden terrace.

The inner courtyard.

A perfect lunch of fresh tomatoes in olive oil and cheese on a shady plaza. There was also a wonderful musician who happened to be playing the guitar while we were there.

16
Puerta del Almocábar

Our last day walking around Ronda.

Thoughts on the message here? No broken hearts? Stop breaking hearts?

Fun group of chimneys.

The daily tiled entries.

Fun door hardware.

I love that the bridge is illuminated at night.

It looks like one of the many paths of the Camino de Santiago goes through Ronda.

17
Plaza Nueva

We have transitioned to Granada. I was super lucky to study here for a couple months over 20 years ago. I’m loved the city then and am excited to rediscover it now.

Below is the small inner courtyard in the building we’re staying in.

There is a lot of Moorish architecture here as it was the last of the Islamic cities to surrender to the Spanish crown. It held out a couple hindred years longer than the rest of Moorish Spain.

A bit of street art.

A typical weekend evening. People are out and about.

A soul like shopping street.

A teateria where we took another break.

And enjoyed tea and a crepe.

The Duro river at the base of the Alhambra neighborhood.

Taking a tapas break with some sautéed potatoes.

First Alhambra sighting!

One of the city wall gates.

18
Generalife

Today we visited one of my favorite places, the Alhambra and Generalife. Truly magical. \240The Alhambra is the most visited place in Spain (although it’s neck and neck with the Sagrada Famila in Barcelona).

This first group of photos is from the Generalife garden and palace.

Wherever you are in the Generalife you can hear the sound of flowing water.

I’m pretty sure this cat had a lizard in its sights, although not the one above.

Gelato of the day! Pomegranate and papaya and Strawberry and Stratchitella.

Wisteria arbors.

My what a long tail you have….

This is the waterfall staircase which has water flowing down channels on each side and a fountain on each landing.

Peonies!

A view of the Alhambra from the Generalife.

The plants along this pathway have gorgeous pink flowers in the summer.

The arched shrubs below are actually shaped orange trees.

Lots of stairways.

19
Nasrid Palaces

This batch of photos is from the Nasrid Palace portion of the Alhambra. They don’t come anywhere close to doing it justice. It’s an amazing work of art.

This is the most famous area, the patio of the lions.

The ceilings are incredible and include carved wood and plaster.

The honeycomb ceilings are something else!

The ceiling is like looking at fractals.

Islamic art does not contain human depictions. All the creativity goes into patterns and script.

20
Alcazaba

This is the last group of Alhambra photos. Mainly focused on the fortress portion of the Alhambra, the Alcazaba.

This is one of the gates to the Alhambra, the door of justice.

Lovely walkway mosaic.

Not sure what these very round rocks are intended for.

Turkish sweets. So colorful!

Alcazaba exit.

The entry to the Alcazaba.

Love the wisteria.

Beautiful snowy Sierra Nevada mountains.

First churros and chocolate.

21
Catedral de Granada

We happen to be in Spain during Semana Santa, or Holy Week, between Palm Sunday and Easter. It is a very big deal. It’s spring break so kids are out of school and a lot of people take time off to visit friends and family or cities that have a lot of events, like Granada.

One of the notable events are processions that are made up of religious brotherhoods who carry very large pasos (religious floats) with iconic figures or scenes related to the story of Christ. Additionally there are penitents dressed in robes and masks with pointed hoods, as well as brass bands.

The pasos weigh a lot, some several tons. The 20-50 brotherhood members underneath carrying them stop a lot for rests. So, the processions move very slowly and take hours winding through the city. Roads are shut down from about 3pm to 1am. People line the streets and pack the neighborhood restaurants and cafes. It’s very social.

Below is the Granada cathedral. In all the cities in Spain we’ve been in, fancy stadium like seating has been set up adjacent to churches along the procession routes. Important families or those making large donations get to sit in the seats.

One of the pasos in Sevilla in a church on display. Some are so big they don’t fit through church doors and are stored in special warehouses.

Video below:

To keep kids from getting bored, there’s an activity where during the long pauses of the procession moving, kids collect the wax dripping from the penitents candles. It’s a kind of competition between kids to make the biggest and most colorful wax ball. Kids keep the balls and add to them over the years.

We are staying near the Cathedral and the processions often pass nearby. So, we’ve gotten to see several here and in our walking around town. We’ve taken a lot of long detours to work around them as well.

A brotherhood office window.

Two guys in hoods on their way to join in a procession somewhere.

Video below:

22
Sacromonte

Today we visited the Sacromonte neighborhood of Granada. It once was made up largely of cave dwellings created and inhabited by gypsy Roma people and other marginalized groups. It is the birthplace of Flamenco in Granada.

The museum we visited has 11 caves showing how they were typically set up and furnished. There are ones showing dwellings, weaving, pottery, metal workshops and flamenco.

The neighborhood had over 3,000 people living in caves up until 1965 when there was torrential rain and flooding and the government declared them too dangerous to live in and forced everyone out.

There are still homes in caves in the area today and some lodging as well.

Part of an old city wall in the area.

He was sad to see Jessee go.

The neighborhood looking toward the Alhambra.

Funny art.

A few more monumental structures on our walk. An old minaret.

The interior and exterior of the caves are painted in lime which deters moisture and reflects heat. They are a constant temperature all year round.

Jessee made a friend along the way. Most of the cats we’ve come across are not interested in interacting but this one definitely was.

Two city gates.

23
Albaicín

We’ve seen so many beautiful balconies in Granada. I’m highlighting some below, mainly in the Albaicin neighborhood. Geraniums are the favorite flower. The traditional pottery in Granada uses a lot of blue, green and white so that’s also a common element along with terracotta.

There’s one artist in particular who has been around for a long time. Most of the photos below are his. Look for script and sprockets.

A courtyard and not a balcony but worth including!

There is a pocket of street art in the neighborhood below the Alhambra.

Granada also has a lot of art on business security doors throughout the city, usually related to what the business does.

A few photos of passageways that defy cars.

24
Carmen de los Mártires

Granada has many unique doors and doorways. I’d have loved to see behind them!

We were able to spend some time at a lovely palace garden called Carmen de los Mártires.

It has its own aqueduct!

This is a photo from the bus between Granada and Cordoba. A small town and its castle. And lots and lots of olive trees. I would estimate that about 85% of Andalusia is dedicated to olive trees with small islands of forest, towns, solar farms and wind turbines.

The Alhambra illuminated at night. So glad we came here. It’s a special place.

25
Mosque-Cathedral Monumental Site of Córdoba

We are in Cordoba and enjoying the city very much.

Cordoba was the capital of the caliphate for hundreds of years and the epicenter of learning and art in its time in Europe. It has 4 UNESCO world heritage sites, more than any other European city.

One of the heritage sites is the mosque/cathedral. The Caliphs built a mosque on the site of an Episcopal church between the 8th and 10th centuries. It was expanded several times to hold over 40,000 people. It was one of the largest mosques in the world at the time.

When the Spanish Catholics conquered Cordoba, they didn’t knock down the mosque, but build around it and in it to convert it to a cathedral.

Entry doors to the courtyard.

Snack time! We enjoyed a local dish of eggplant fries with goat cheese and honey. One of the few times I can say that I’ve enjoyed eggplant!

Stained glass from the mosque.

This dome was added for the church knave.

The iconic columns from the mosque. There are hundreds. Each colum has a different capital/top. Some repurposed from Roman sites in the area and the former Episcopal church.

This is one of the gates through the old city wall.

This is the entrance to the alley where we are staying in the old Jewish neighborhood.

More exterior detail.

The bell tower which was the minaret.

26
Palacio de Viana

One of the UNESCO World Heritage Sites for Cordoba is its collective patios. There is a festival of patios in May when people open them up to the public for viewing. The rest of the year some are open for a small fee that goes to support their upkeep by the owners. One neighborhood in particular, San Basilio, has several award winning patios, some of which were open during our visit.

The flowers are mainly Geraniums but Petunias and Begonias are also very popular.

The Roman temple in Cordoba.

Some impressive doors in the Jewish neighborhood.

Tiles commentating honors received over the years are put up outside the patio entries.

I love this one dedicated to one of the patio owners.

The entryway to the Alley where our lodging is located was in the historically Jewish neighborhood.

There is a palace, Palacio de Viana, that is open to the public that has 11 patios. Each with its own vibe. Most with fountains.

A bridge called the Roman bridge leading to \240the Mosque/Cathedral.

Some colorful trim.

Yummy Mediterranean meal of hummus, falafel and tabbouleh.

Making good use of the patio rest areas.

Cordoba also has many welcoming tiled building entries.

Statue commemorating multi-generational care of the patios.

27
Real Jardín Botánico

We have arrived in Madrid. We’re staying in a lively area called Puerta del Sol. There is a lot going on and a lot of people.

The architecture is definitely bigger here than anywhere we’ve been so far. I love the colors of the buildings on this street.

Love the sentiment and the bollard painted like a pencil outside this art studio. Art is the solution to chaos.

The bear and tree are the emblem of Madrid.

And a smattering of street art.

Parque Retiro is a massive park with many paths and benches and places to relax in the shade or sun. This is the very large pond where people can rent rowboats.

We also visited a food market with vendors selling prepared foods, fruit and vegetables, fish, meat, cheese, and olives.

There are some impressive towers on buildings here. This one is on the building housing the four seasons hotel.

Of course we visited the adjacent botanical garden which had some lovely spring blooms.

A bit of fancy door hardware.

First visit to Plaza Mayor. The biggest plaza in Madrid with lots of cafes and buskers.

Today was a light photo day in Madrid. So, we’re going back in time to extra Granada photos.

The name Granada may have come from the Latin word Granata meaning pomegranate. Pomegranates are not native to the area but they were introduced and can be found. It might also have to do with the red color of the soil in the area.

Whether true or not, the city has embraced the meaning and there are pomegranate representations in every type of art medium throughout the city.

Below are several we came across along the way.

Many roof drainage downspouts have pomegranates on them.

I had a delicious pomegranate gelato as well 😀.

All street signs made of tile in the Albacin neighborhood have pomegranates.

Every bollard in the city has a pomegranate top. This was the only one with the seeds painted red.

28
Monasterio de San Juan de los Reyes

We took a field trip to Toledo today. The train station makes a great first impression!

Cervantes statue.

Beautiful stained glass and tile.

Our train back to Madrid.

Fancy roof drain spouts in the shapes of fanciful animals.

An entry to he university.

There are so many glass window boxes here.

A short walk brought us to one of the entrances to the town.

The cloister at monastery of San Juan de los Reyes.

Painted balconies beneath the real thing.

This is the impressive original ticket counter.

Fancy and strange door knocker.

29
Segovia Aqueduct

We took another field trip from Madrid. This time to Segovia. It’s a really lovely town with mountains with snow nearby, an intact wall surrounding the old city, a big cathedral, an Alcazar/fort/palace and an incredible aqueduct. It also just has a really nice vibe.

The aqueduct is truly amazing! It was built by the Romans in the second century AD and runs about 16 miles from the mountains into Segovia. It supplied Segovia with water via a channel on top and in places underground, which filled cisterns and fountains. It’s made of granite with dry stone construction meaning there is no mortar holding it together. It has 167 arches.

The main plaza and cathedral.

This is the kings room with a representation of every Spanish King around the perimeter.

And small dessert.

Our tapas lunch.

Jessee leading the way.

It’s rooms have very intricate ceilings.

It’s very green right now.

Video below.

Cute bug art and lovely glass patio.

Beautiful pastries.

Fast train back to Madrid at about 150MPH.

Also many exposed wood beams which we haven’t seen anywhere else.

From the Alcazar looking back to the Cathedral.

A funny sandwich shop. No shortage of ham here.

30
Alcázar de Segovia

A few more photos here of the plasterwork that I found beautiful in Segovia.

This is the oldest version at the Alcazar palace.

31
Palau de la Música Catalana

We have transitioned to Barcelona.

We enjoyed a day of fun Architecture at the Palau music theatre which is pretty over the top decoration wise, and the Gothic Quarter. Thousands of flowers represented in a variety of mediums. Very fanciful and fun.

We also visited one of the big market halls. Definitely geared toward tourists but fun.

Some fun streets.

Balcony columns.

Stained glass skylight.

Cathedral in the Gothic Quarter.

The cutest ticket window ever.

32
Santa Maria de Montserrat Abbey

About an hour and a half from Barcelona is a monestary perched on the edge of mountains with very distinct shaped rocks. To get there we took a normal train and cogwheel train. The below view looking up is from the cogwheel train.

The view of the funicular tracks up to the viewpoint. Glad we saw this perspective after taking it up.

From the monestary we took a funicular to a viewpoint above the monestary.

When we got back to Barcelona we went to the Montjuïc palace magic water fountain performance with lights and music. A fun way to spend an evening.

Looking down from the cogwheel train to the town of Montserrat.

Inside the monestary basilica.

Looking down from the viewpoint.

33
Park Güell

A Gaudi filled day! It turns out Barcelona is all about the architecture for us.

First, Casa Batllo. A private house built for a very wealthy family with a nautical animal/nature theme.

The house next door which is also pretty amazing looking.

Part 2 of the day was spent at Parque Guell. A very large park that was intended to be a housing development but lost steam and wasn’t ever built out. Lucky for us!

Jessee doing his Instagram pose 😜🧩

One of the buildings in the park.

It has two light wells that flood all floors with light.

A well earned Peruvian dinner.

Taking a break!

The back exterior of the house from the back patio.

The famous dragon/lizard.

Park spring flowers.

A neighborhood door.

Sagrada Família in the background. The foreground is an area called the terrace which is bordered by a serpentine tile bench. The tiles were cast offs of broken pieces at a ceramics factory.

Rooftop sculpture

The columns holding up the terrace and benches.

The chimneys.

Laura, Jessee’s sister, is with us.

34
Sagrada Familia

We paid a visit to the Sagrada Família church designed by Gaudi. It’s been under construction for 135 years, with a pause during COVID for a year or so. It is unlike any other church or building we’ve been to or are ever likely to go to in the future.

We went to the top of one of the towers where the spire tips are more visible and include fanciful tiled tips.

We were there during some beautiful afternoon light.

The church casting a shadow over the Barcelona skyline.

The stained glass is gorgeous.

Once inside, there are few words to describe the reality.

The columns use different materials and are meant to mimic trees in a forest.

Enjoying Paella with Jessee’s sister Laura who were traveling with for a bit.

Little creatures live in the doors greenery.

Below is one of the entrances with doors cast in metal by a Japanese artist.

35
Recinte Modernista de Sant Pau

Our final architectural stop in Barcelona, and we’ve just seen the tip of the iceberg. So many remarkable buildings!

This complex was originally built between 1901 and 1930 as a hospital. It features 12 pavilions connected by underground tunnels. The buildings have intricate brickwork, colorful ceramics, and beautiful gardens. The thought was that patients would heal mor quickly and feel better in beautiful, light filled spaces with access to nature. Ahead of its time! It functioned as a hospital until 2009.

It has been restored and reopened as a cultural center and knowledge hub housing various organizations and is open for public visits. About 6 of the buildings and part of the tunnels are open to visitors.

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36
Narbonne

We made a brief couple day stop in Narbonne France on our way north to Bordeaux for a quick side trip to France.

Narbonne is a really nice town with a functioning canal with live-aboard boats. Below was the view from our lodging.

Tree lined canal path.

Post ice cream beer in a fun glass.

Locks to shift boats to different water levels.

Ice cream! Jessee finally found a peanut and chocolate Combo. Laura had honey lavender.

Fun architecture.

A little street art.

Pretty blue shutters.

37
Arcachon

We are now enjoying time in Bordeaux. It’s a fairly big city with a river running through and a historic town center.

Below is a water feature across from a large set of buildings. It’s basically a concrete sidewalk with water misting spouts every foot or so that create a sheen that reflects the buildings and people nearby. A pretty fun idea plus a play area for kids as the misting turns on.

The neighborhood next to the tower has some distinctive and very large houses.

Creatively painted canal Locke control building. Reminds me of Alice in Wonderland.

Fun doors.

People out enjoying the sunny day.

An observatory tower.

Unique trees lining the boardwalk.

We went to a recommended bakery with a unique product of a core of meringue, coated in a thin layer of whipped cream and a coating of chocolate shavings or flavored bits of meringue.

Wine museum bounty.

First dinner in Bordeaux.

One of the wine museums in Bordeaux.

We took a day trip to Arcachon. A lovely beach town with a couple very small cars.

Some amusement rides at a beach pier.

Flora along the way.

We got a chocolate, cherry, two pistachio and two praline. They were light as air and delicious.

Laura headed up for a view.

Beachside lunch.

Pet rabbit on a leash at a park.

38
Saint-Émilion

A fun excursion outside Bordeaux to Saint Emilion, a village very much focused on wine making surrounded by vineyards.

Macarons made by nuns in the area

We toured the cellars of a winery we made a stop at.

The tourist train to the wineries.

There are brackets in the exterior walls to hold the wooden shutters open . I liked these for going beyond function.

The village.

Refreshment break.

The old wall around the village

Baby grapes.

A grotto in the cellar.

Many bottles stacked up.

39
Monte Igeldo's tower

We’ve transitioned to San Sebastián, Basque Country. It is beautiful! I think it’s my favorite city of the trip so far. What it may not have in Moorish castles or palaces (they never conquered northern part of what is now Spain), or big art museums, it makes up for in incredible natural beauty, pretty Belle Epoch architecture, and a relaxed yet vibrant feel.

The city has gorgeous beaches and a boardwalk that stretches many many kilometers for lots of walking and bike riding.There are promontories at each end of the bay that make it more sheltered than it would be otherwise, each with beautiful views looking back to the city.

The view of the bay from the tower.

Natural rock combined with man made structure. Zoom in on the mountain behind, Monte Igeldo. There’s a tower that is our destination for the day.

Coffee and cheesecake with a view.

We visited a sculpture installation at the base of Monte Igeldo called Comb of the Wind, installed in 1977. It was a joint effort between an artist who created the sculptures and the architect who designed the platform that incorporates blowholes that shoot water into the sky and make musical sounds when the waves are high. The sculptures also make sounds in the wind.

Seaside sculpture.

Fancy lamp post paintings.

Looking down a street in the old part of the city on the other side of the bay at the foot of Monte Urgull.

This is the building housing the funicular that took us up to the top of Monte Igeldo.

The blowholes that also look like puzzle pieces.

Gray skies and Atlantic ocean.

The funicular.

Looking west down the coast.

Easy sea access ramp. There were swimmers, spear fishermen and kayakers out enjoying the water.

40
Pasai Donibane

We went on a field trip from San Sebastián to Pasai, a fishing village about a half hour away. It has one street with the ocean on one side and a steep slope on the other with houses and businesses squished in between.

This is the pub across from the church.

Taking a break.

The road that keeps going out of town is part of the Camino de Santiago.

Camino path blazes.

All lined up and ready to go.

Houses and cafes backed up against the slope on the main square.

A one dimensional representation of the Comb of the Wind sculpture?

Over-street housing.

The back yard is the ocean.

Mural at an elementary school playground along the way.

41
Urgull

A few last photos of San Sebastián. We wish we had more time here! It’s our favorite city of the trip.

Constitution Plaza in the Casco Viejo neighborhood.

Looking from a viewpoint on Urgull over to the tower we were in before across the way.There’s a patient Jessee on a bench waiting for me to finish taking photos at the very lower left of the photo.

Handy foot wash at a surfboard rental shop.

Two other bridges getting closer to the ocean.

Two other bridges getting closer to the ocean.

There are some lovely bridges over the Urumea Itsadarra river running through San Sebastián. This is the fanciest, the Maria Christina named after one of the Spanish queens.

Pretty marina with the top of Urgull in the background.

There’s a great boardwalk that goes all the way around the promontory opposite the one we visited the other day with the funicular. The promontory is called Urgull. Across the bay from the Comb of the Wind sclupture is this one, “Empry Construction.” It looks different from every angle.

A weathered painting of a local \240artist with traditional Basque beret.

Another beach that is less protected so has fun waves and lots of surfers.

There are some lovely bridges over the Urumea Itsadarra river running through San Sebastián. This is the fanciest, the Maria Christina named after one of the Spanish queens.

Handy foot wash at a surfboard rental shop.

42
Mount Artxanda

We have arrived in Bilbao. It’s up a river a way from the ocean with lots of green hillsides surrounding it. There are two major art museums here, the Guggenheim, which also has a location in New York and is in a very distinctive building designed by an American architect Frank Gehry, and the Museo de Bellas Artes.

Basque cheesecake!

One of the sculptures on the exterior titled “Puppy”. That’s a lot of plant maintenance!

Museum, sculpture and bridge.

Ice cream break!

We visited a food market with some fancy windows.

The Guggenheim and adjacent bridge.

A camino de Santiago path marker.

Pretty apartment buildings in the historic center.

I didn’t know the Hobbit was so popular here! 😜

And Pintxos, Basque tapas. Pronounced peen-chos. These were mushroom croquettes and cod fritters.

A fun pedestrian bridge.

I was looking at this building when I noticed the space invader below. It’s the same artist we first saw in Melbourne and more recently Faro in Portugal. It’s looking up to the left at a building with a green and yellow facade that it matches.

Basque berets.

Yep, another funicular ride. This time up Mount Artxanda for a view of the city.

A small hamburger, cod and red pepper, and prawn and cheese.

43
Bizkaia Bridge

We took the metro about a half hour out of Bilbao along the Nervion River to the towns of Puerto Viejo and Getxo.

Puerto Viejo is an old fishing village with narrow streets and whitewashed buildings.

Pretty buildings across the river.

Bacalao is dried salted cod, a mainstay of the traditional diet in Basque Country, and in many places in Europe historically. This shop is across the street from where we’re staying.

Stairs and railings into the river which fluctuates with the tide.

The below writing is Basque and says something along the lines of “We are because they were. We will be because of them.”

And cheesecake. It was a long storm.

Pretty beach area along the boardwalk.

This tree is impressively hanging on!

Getxo is a town with an impressive bridge that is a feat of engineering built in 1893 to move things across the river. It’s still functioning and is now a UNESCO heritage site.

We stopped and had lunch near the bridge while waiting out an impressive thunderstorm. My glass says “This glass is colder than your ex’s heart”. 😜

Getxo building mural.

With several murals.

Delicious tomato salad and shrimp in garlic sauce.

This area produced most of the steel and electricity for all of Spain for quite a while. Some people got very rich as a result and built impressive mansions along the boardwalk and beach.

Apartment balcony geraniums.

Marina happenings.

The white pod looking thing on the far side of the river has cars and people loaded on. The cables holding it move along a track and transport it, seemingly levitating, across the river. A highly engineered alternative to a ferry. There are also elevators in each tower that people can take to the top to walk across. Too high for me….

My favorite photo of the day. The dog dug the hole then jumped in and was so happy.

44
Nueva Plaza

As in other cities, Bilbao businesses have some creative murals on their security grilles.

Plaza nueva in the oldest part of the city.

Old Bilbao mural.

One of the restaurants on the plaza where we had our final Pintxos before moving on from the Basque Country.

So many to choose from!

Pretty balcony.

We had a good mix of fish, veggies and cheese.

45
Calle Abundio Gascón

We have transitioned out of Basque Country to Oviedo in \240the region of Asturias. It’s very mountainous and green and rainy. One of the pilgrimage routes for the Camino de Santiago runs through Oviedo. It’s marked in places with the scallop shell in various formats.

We spent some time on the old part of the city wandering through the streets and plazas.There are some beautiful buildings.

The cathedral.

Below is the town hall. Front…

We tried it with some local cheeses. It’s light and dry. The wait staff hold the bottle up in the air quite high and the glass quite low and pour it in a long stream not the glass. Apparently to aerate it.

There’s a street known for having an abundance of Sidrerias, or cider houses which celebrate the locally made cider.

And back.

46
Church of San Miguel de Lillo

We’ve enjoyed strolling around a beautiful park in the middle of Oviedo: San Francisco Park.

The second building is the church of Santa Maria del Naranco built in 842 as part of a palace and later converted to a church.

Neighborhood cat.

Deserted house with antenna.

The first old building is a 9th century church, most of which collapsed in the Middle Ages but this portion survives.

We took a bus up into the hills outside Oviedo to visit a couple very old buildings and also saw these tradicional Austurian rural buildings.

A couple pretty buildings in Oviedo.

Spring flowers on the path near the church.

Jessee is joined on the bench by Mafalda. She’s a character from an Argentinian comic strip from the 1960’s and 70’s apparently loved in Spain.

Views of Oviedo from the churches.

Tree trunk bench.

47
Gijón

Quick field trip for a stroll along the water to Gijon, about a half hour from Oviedo. It’s a large port with a lot of industryl but it also has an old part of the city and extensive beach.

Town hall.

Very long and windy beach. There were several wind surfers out enjoying the weather.

Not sure what this dragon head was all about but it was impressive.

Lots of local food and beverage specialties available to take home.

Colorful buildings.

A cider bottle sculpture.

Ice cream break!

Small marina.

48
Torre de Hércules

We have moved on from the Provence of Asturias to A Coruna in Galicia which was settled by the Romans and Celts before the Spanish.

An important landmark in the city is the Tower of Hercules, the worlds oldest working lighthouse built by the Romans in the 1st century BC. It’s had ups and downs and been modified over the centuries, but has always been around in some form since it was built.

From where there is a beautiful view.

Marina sights.

Each with a unique inlaid tile or glass artwork.

With surprises inside.

Maria Pita, A local Spanish heroine who was key in fighting off an English invasion in the 1500’s.

A Coruna is known as the city of glass due to the glassed in balconies that are predominant along the port/marina entry.

There are frogs on many sidewalks. Apparently they line the paths to various schools.

The blue mosaic is called the Rose Compass and has symbols for the Celtic kingdoms: Galicia has a Scallop shell (for St. James, more on that later), a Thistle for Scotland, Shamrock for Ireland, Dragon for Wales, three legs for the Isle of Man, a chalice for Cornwall, an Ermine for Brittany and a skull and crossbones for the Tartessos (???).

There are about 200 steps to the top.

Ice cream break!

If I lived here I’d photograph them all!

With some old steps down.

A couple murals.

Town hall.

There’s about 13 kilometers of boardwalk around the city’s coastline, all of it lined with these distinctive lamp posts.

There are about 200 steps to the top.

Beautiful nasturtiums covering a hillside.

There’s a pretty beach below the tower.

49
Mega Museo Estrella Galicia

Galicia, and A Coruña in particular, is the home of Estrella Galicia, Jessee’s beer choice here, so far the best of the nonalcoholic options he’s tried. The brewery has an impressive museum - MEGA: Mundo Estrella Galicia.

Gorgeous giant trees in a plaza.

They have fun with small batch limited runs.

After the beer museum we ambled around town a bit. Saw some sidewalk art and murals.

They do a great job explaining the history of beer through the millennia, the resources that go into it, the science of brewing and what’s special about this brand. Their company goal is not to sell the most of any beer company but to be the most loved beer.

More Camino signage, although the skull and crossbones is not related. It’s popped up in a few places as street art. It’s in the city coat of arms as a reference to a giant killed by Hercules, but not sure this is referring to that?

Kegs though the years.

Fun doors.

Spanish F1 drivers are fans of the beer as well.

I love the button as a sign for a tailor shop. Very Diagon Alley.

Tasting at the end of the tour.

I was distracted and fascinated by their see through escalators that were motion activated. Very fun!

Puhukawa trees transplanted from New Zealand where they bloom at Christmas which is summer there. Blooming now as summer approaches here. Love them in both places!

Snack crackers with the tasting. They were made from the brewing grain by-products and were quite tasty!

Monks were key in beer brewing in Spain for quite a while.

Mushroom looking door handle.

Their logo is a star. Interestingly similar to Sapporo beer which Jessee also enjoys and whose brewery we also took a tour of.

50
Orzán Beach

Today was pretty rainy so we didn’t venture out until the evening in search of ice cream and the sunset. As we meandered we also came across some street art and traditional Galician shoes…

Angel and devil.

Lots more little skull and crossbones tile art. Now that I’ve noticed them they’re everywhere. Someone has been very productive!

I’m pretty convinced at this point that they are related to the city coat of arms below \240which has the Tower of Hercules, on top of a skull and crossbones that belonged to a three headed giant that Hercules killed and buried under the tower. It also has 7 Scallop shells related to one of the Camino de Santiago routes that starts in A Coruña called the English way because English pilgrims often landed in A Coruna from their boat journey from England.

Cute kid versions.

This one is the tower of Hercules shining its light into the night.

Address marker, maybe for the artist!

Passed this adult and child on our way to the beach. Just a Monday evening surfing at the city beach. So cool.

Mural in process by the artist.

Mistchief managed! Ice cream procured. We were both feeling like trying the lemon flavor which was delicious!

Mural in process by the artist.

These are tradicional shoes in the area. Wooden soles and leather uppers, often quite colorful.

Many are near street signs (some of which have the coat of arms pictured), and some are related to street names.

Address marker, maybe for the artist!

The sunset.

Last surfer out paddling around.

Last surfer out paddling around.

I think this one is indicating danger of fire due to all the wires 😜

Flying cows.

51
Museum of the Galician People

We have moved south a bit to Pontevedra. The photos below are from a field trip to Santiago de Compostela. A very atmospheric and spiritually important city as the terminus of the Camino de Santiago pilgrimage.

Our first stop was the Museum of the Galician People which covers a lot of Galician history over many exhibits. The building itself is beautiful with one of the highlights being a triple spiral staircase. It’s like DNA strands, or an MC Escher drawing. It did my brain in.

Staircase looking up from the bottom.

Of course there was ice cream!

The cloister of the museum building.

Cute imagery.

And resting. 😌

A bagpiper outfit.

There is imagery of Camino pilgrims everywhere.

Fancy stonework.

Looking down from the top.

Lunch! Any guesses what these alien creatures are?

Barnacles! A local delicacy. They were tasty. A bit of work to get to the part that’s eaten inside, but less work than oysters.

The area was also known for their lace making in the 1800’s up to World War II. My brain was also boggled by how anyone could keep track of the dozens of strands of thread involved and the hundreds of designs.

We learned about the storage houses for grains mostly that are often visible from the train and bus windows.

Looking across.

One of the exhibits focused on music and in particular the Galician bagpipes that are part of their Celtic history.

One of the sides of the cathedral where the pilgrimage ends. What are believed to be the remains of St. James are in the church and inspire the pilgrims to make the journey. Some people walk from Germany or France, others from Portugal or other areas of Spain. There were a lot of folks outside the cathedral who were just finishing.

Well trained vines on a nearby building.

52
Cíes Islands

Thanks to a Chat GPT suggestion, we made our way to one of my favorite places we’ve visited so far, Cíes Islands National Park. It’s about an hour ferry ride from the city of Vigo. The islands are uninhabited and there are beautiful trails and no cars. People can camp overnight or come and go in a day.

Ferry that dropped us off.

One of the paths we walked below. Note the eucalyptus trees. They are a big crop in Galicia. The islands were privately owned before becoming national parks and eucalyptus was planted at some point. It smells wonderful and leads me to look for koalas, wombats and wallabies which unfortunately have not come with the eucalyptus to Spain.

The orange lichen colors the whole side of the mountain.

And several creatures.

There were a lot of flowers and flora.

The trails provide beautiful views.

More interesting rocks 😀

Interesting granite rock weathering. We stopped here for lunch.

There are a few lighthouses on the islands. Below is one perched at the top of a pointy outcrop.

53
Combarro

We took a side trip from Pontevedra to the small town of Combarro, a fishing village known for having traditiona houses and l storage buildings right up to the edge of the sea.

Below is the water access from the main plaza.

Another plaza area and houses along the water.

And lots of plants and flowers.

The streets are narrow and mostly free of cars.

Lunch of garlic shrimp and roasted peppers.

The storage buildings hold crops like corn or potatoes for storage and keep them off the damp ground away from pests. They are also used to keep fishing equipment.

There’s a sense of fun to the buildings.

And of course ice cream!

A cat looking for a handout at our lunch table.

Easy kayak put in!

54
Vigo Urzaiz

We’ve stopped in Vigo a couple times now on our way to other places and I really like it. It’s a pretty city with some large scale public art and hands down the nicest train station we’ve been to in Spain. And officially the last Spanish train station of this trip as well. It’s in the lower level of a really nice shopping center that has an IKEA attached. It’s very similar to train stations in Japan.

Anyway, some brief experiences of our passages through… including murals.

Vigo is hilly. There are a network of uphill moving sidewalks. The ones we saw went for many blocks and had really nice landscaping around them. This was the most fun with a structure and art as well.

Impressive recycling options.